I was working and living in West Germany at a time before the ‘Wall’ came down and was courting my ex-husband, an RAF Officer. We were living about a 2 hour journey from each other so we only saw each other at weekends. We were friendly with a married couple and he was also a RAF Officer. After sharing a few drunken evenings together we decided that we wanted to visit Berlin for a weekend. The men wanted to soak up the history,I wanted to see Berlin because of the film ‘Cabaret’ with Liza Minelli and the wife wanted to visit a War Memorial Graveyard because one of her relatives was buried there.
After getting the various papers signed we set off,crossing into East Berlin at a check point called Helmstedt. My ex approached the Russian soldier at the check point and he examined the paperwork and after a salute we started to drive to Berlin. We were only allowed a certain amount of time to drive cross East Germany, so if we were too quick then we were suspected of speeding and if we were too long then there’s a question of did we stop? You were not allowed to stop for any reason and if you did then you had to stay in your car and wait for the East German police to arrive and assist you.
Anyway, nothing happened to us and we arrived into West Berlin with no trouble. We found our Hotel which was an American Forces Hotel and went to our rooms. The other couple didn’t want to join us, going into the centre of Berlin for dinner, so off we went. It was very cold minus10 degrees so we were wrapped up warmly and didn’t really want to stay out too long. We found a lovely little restuarant near the Brandenburg Gate walked around a little and saw the fence in memory of men and woman who were killed trying to escape to their loved-ones or families when they were separated overnight when the ‘Wall’ went up. We decided we were cold and started to make our way back to the Hotel. We took the U-Bahn/Metro which was very busy and I noticed inside the carriage a man wearing a typical Russian furry hat. We had to change trains and I then noticed this man again in the same carriage as us. The third time we changed trains so did he and he also got into the same carriage. I mentioned this to my ex and he told me not to worry!!!!! At the end of the journey we ALL got off and then we were followed back to the Hotel. All of this freaked me out and the next day it got even worse!
After breakfast we drove around and saw various historic buildings and places of interest including Spandau Prison where Rulolf Hess was in solitary imprisonment. I wanted a coffee, as I always do in the morning, so we pulled in and parked outside a coffee shop. The men were in their uniforms and we walked together to the door of the coffee shop but were stopped by a nervous owner saying that they were closed. This wasn’t true as inside there were customers. I wanted to protest but was quickly told to shut up!
We turned and climbed back to the car and as we passed a big building next to the coffee shop we realised it was the HQ of the KGB. No wonder we were not allowed into the coffee shop!
For the rest of the day we carried on exploring West Berlin visiting the War Graves. In the evening we made our way to the East for another adventure. To visit East Berlin you had to encounter the rig moral of “Check Point Charlie”. This is the point of entry into East Berlin and guarded by Russian Soldiers. We were stopped as expected and only us ladies had to individually put our passport up against a closed window of the car and when gestured by the Russian guard, turn the pages over so that he could check for ‘whatever’?? The men who were still in their uniform did not have to do a thing; just sit there with their hats on with stern, serious faces. It was like facing the enemy in the face and quite nerve racking (for me anyway).
We wanted to have dinner but first we decided to find a bar for a drink. Driving to find a bar we passed six Russian soldiers marching and kicking their legs high, as they do! (Changing the guards I suppose). We found a bar and we went upstairs and found it was very busy with a big circular barin the middle of the room, with a counter that you had to queue around to get served. Us girls found a table and sat down while the men went up to the bar to get served. We were spotted obviously, so one of the barmen got straight onto the phone while another served them first,by-passing the other customers. Within a short while two smartly dressed men appeared,they sat and watched us until we left to find a restaurant. Luckily there was one under the bar We walked in and found it to be a dark, shabby restaurant. We sat down to a dark, shabby table with a grubby tablecloth.
I ordered a mixed grill but I cannot remember what the others ordered. I also wanted a “starter” but was firmly told that the main course was enough by the waitress/owner, that I wouldn’t need any more to eat!! Cheeky cow!!
Afterward the one course meal, I ordered coffee and it turned out to be acorn coffee! It was certainly different and I didn’t ask for a refill!
We drove back into West Berlin without any trouble and had a good laugh on the way recalling everything that had happened.
The next day we checked out of the Hotel and did the reverse journey;driving back through East Germany and into West Germany. All of us felt emotional about our visit and priveledged to have had such an experience.
The KGB was reporting in that we had left and was on our way ‘home’.
In 2003 I visited Berlin again and was amazed at how difference Berlin looked. This changed after the ‘Wall’ came down in November 1989 etc.
That leads me into another story which you will have to wait for.